Eye Witness: The Lynmouth Disaster 1952

After reading my post about a visit to Lynmouth in 2007, Gillian Riddoch left a comment saying that her father was in the 102 Corps Engineer Regiment (TA) and he was in Lynmouth at the time of the tragic flood in 1952. I’m very pleased to be able to publish J. Gordon Killin’s account of what he experienced on that dreadful night of the 15th/16th of August as he and his Army colleagues worked tirelessly to assist the residents of Lynmouth in their time of dire need.

J. Gordon KillinFriday 15th August 1952

Job — to collect petrol-driven 10-ton roller from Garrison Engineer Oakhampton, on loan to us for use on the road for the beach exercise. Jenkins and McDonald with Albion and trailer, with Carlin as dispatch rider, left before 0730. There had been heavy rain during the night and they were lucky to get out of the car park.

Photo: J. Gordon Killin, aged 19. (He was 23 at the time of this account.) Used with kind permission.

I left about 0930 in a jeep with no screenwipers on the driver’s side, meaning to ensure that the load was properly secured and come straight back. I had on a double texture waterproof coat, but the heavy rain soon began to penetrate the left-hand side exposed to the weather. The absence of screenwipers when trying to hurry on unfamiliar roads made driving a stress. However, about 1100hrs I got up the steep hill onto the moorland outside the camp where the Albion was parked, waiting on word from Carlin about which gate to go in.

By this time I had climbed into the cab of the Albion. Carlin came back and we drove into the car park. The Garrison Engineer wanted the trailer up to a bank outside the shed where the roller was kept. We started off by going up the wrong road and having to nose the trailer back down again. By this time the rain was really lashing down. Eventually we got it round to the bank, and amid blinding rain the roller was driven onto the trailer, slipping precariously due to mud on the rollers. The paths were swimming with water.

We broke off for lunch at 1300hrs, everybody soaked, cold and pretty miserable. A hot lunch put new life into us and we returned to the task, rain still pouring down. We took turns to go over to the boiler house to get thawed and dried. The boiler man was most hospitable. Jenkins and I returned to the job and McDonald and Carlin went to get dried. We were soaked within minutes. We got the ramps and gave up the struggle against a chain that wouldn’t [budge] and moved off. I went along to GE office and told Thomas that we were ready, but wouldn’t take the civvy operator as we would be too late to unload.

We collected McDonald and Carlin went for his motorbike, which he had left on the vehicle park. The three of us hauled the ramps onto the trailer and went down to the car park, where Carlin had left his bike. He was standing in six inches of water in the park, kicking fruitlessly at the starter.

Further over in the park, the water had lifted a 2ft manhole cover and a 10ft jet of water was spouting out all the time. We scrounged a new plug for the bike, but it still refused to start and we had to leave it behind. We set off, jeep leading, burning our sidelights for the heavy rain which made the 5pm sky like dusk.

The steep hill down to Okehampton town was running with water and strewn with stones washed out when the edges of the road surface had broken up. We stopped at a café for egg, chips and hot tea, knowing it might be hours before our next hot meal and the eating places between Okehampton and Bideford were hard to find. Back at the jeep there were large pools of water where we had been sitting. As we left the café, water was entering their basement.

Storm CloudsWe set off again, the Albion taking ages to crawl up the long hills, almost at walking pace. Rain was still pouring down, the sides of us that faced out from the jeep getting wetter and colder and our feet squelching every time we moved them. Several parts of the road between Okehampton and Torrington were under 3ft of water and there were queues of cars waiting to be pulled through by farm tractors.

Photo: FCPA Blog.

Most of the road was under running water a least a few inches deep, sometimes running into the road, sometimes churning across it, a brown foaming torrent. I tried to keep conversation going to stop Carlin thinking too much about how cold and wet he was. I was just as miserable, but driving, even at walking pace, occupied my mind to a certain extent.

Many of the bridges were up to the arches with flood water. I remember thinking how tremendous the pressure must have been and, as we later heard, many older and weaker bridges were carried away.

We saw one man standing in the porch of a newly built house as water rushed down the path from the road straight to the front door.

About 10 o’clock we reached Bideford and I decided to stop again for a hot drink. The road by the river was broad and we parked our convoy outside a café and went in for tea and sandwiches. It was a cheerful meal, we were within 30 miles of bed, but when we went outside again, a policeman was nosing around the Albion and trailer, to which he had obviously taken a dislike. He objected, quite rightly, to the small and dim tail lights and the danger thereof. Jenkins then told me that the dynamo hadn’t been charging all day and that we might have trouble starting up. I parked the jeep behind the trailer. The starter was giving unresponsive clicks. I suspected that water had got into it. Attempting to investigate would have meant opening the bonnet, which would have let more rain into the engine. [Eventually though], we got back to camp and our welcoming beds.

Click to visit the Everything Exmoor siteSaturday 16th August 1952

Our avuncular C.O. Bob Muir had no hesitation at getting me out of bed at 3 o’clock in the morning — “Gordon, go and see what’s happening.” I stood at the top of a 1 in 4, running with silt and pebbles washed down from higher upstream.

Photo: Everything Exmoor.

Carlin, who had been invaluable in reporting roads damaged by the torrent and bridges destroyed, said I might get the jeep down the slope but probably wouldn’t get it back up the hill again as more and more silt from upstream poured down it.

In the dark I trod warily down the hill and stepped over rubble to examine the force of the torrent descending on Lynmouth. The next morning revealed that I had been standing on the first floor of a hotel that had been destroyed by the torrent. The damage assessed, I scrabbled back off to my jeep to radio in my report to H.Q. Meanwhile Carlin’s details of impassable roads and damaged bridges allowed me to plan for Bailey bridge materials to be delivered to the site.

Click to visit the Everything Exmoor siteWilling Z reservists were pleased to tackle the building of replacement Bailey bridges at these sites, much better use of their knowledge and experience than the “refresher” course listed on their papers.

Photo: Everything Exmoor.

The next thing that we obviously needed was to get an excavator down to Lynmouth as boulders were obstructing the outflow from the East and West [Lyn] rivers, which normally discharge over the beach. I radioed Leo Fielder and a 19 R.B. was duly dispatched using the coastal upper leg of the A39. This involved another 1 in 4 descent to Lynmouth. I found it sitting immobile at the top of Countisbury Hill.

The rig was driven by Jenkins, who was unwilling to risk the descent with the weight of excavator and trailer. An over-confident 23 year old lieutenant sure of his own ability, but lacking in judgement (me) jumped into the driving seat of the Albion, ignoring Jenkins, who complained about the tail wagging the dog. We set off swaying down the hill at a gathering speed towards an offset bridge at the bottom. I still don’t know how I managed to negotiate the bridge without wiping out the parapet. The upper slope beyond the bridge slowed us down and I was able to examine the brake lines and discovered they were parallel instead of crossed over as they should have been to provide braking to the trailer. My words to Jenkins would be better imagined than repeated here!

Click to read the BBC Archives - On This DayAt least we now had the excavator where it was needed, and its first task was to clear a big enough area of foreshore to turn round the trailer. The ever resourceful Carlin had found a quarry owner who wanted the river bed raised to its old level before it was gouged out by the surge. “If only it had stopped here instead of landing on the foreshore.” I felt like sending him to join the miserable Jenkins, so that they could moan together.

Photo: BBC Archives.

Once we had a turning circle big enough to turn round the trailer rig, we sent it back to H.Q. at Braunton. Carlin had arranged for the quarry owner to send a convoy of dump trucks to convey the material to where it was most wanted. This cleared the foreshore at Lynmouth to allow the outflow of the two rivers to flow into the sea.

The digger driver carried the gratitude of the owner of the Tors Hotel which was empty because the picturesque village of Lynmouth was no longer a tourist attraction. Dinner, bed and breakfast were provided free of charge until Lynmouth village recovered.

* * * * *

Here, in this BBC Archives footage posted on YouTube by geographyalltheway, the aftermath of the disaster can be seen. Tom Bevan, owner of the Lyndale Hotel, and fisherman Ken Oxenam describe what they witnessed. Then, towards the end of the footage, Major Elliott from the Army explains the work his troops have been doing — and just prior to him appearing on screen, an excavator can be seen moving rocks and debris on the foreshore (at 04:55 on the timeline). Perhaps this is the very excavator for which Gordon and his colleagues risked life and limb to manoeuvre down the steep and treacherous rain-filled road into Lynmouth!


BBC archive footage (some sound absent, but interviews intact)

Rising Sea Levels

When the waters start to rise, how will coastlines around the globe be affected? A clever mash-up of Google Maps and NASA data gives a graphic illustration of what could happen if sea levels rise by up to 14 metres.

Floodmap of London, 14M of sea-level riseGeorge Murphy, who commented on my North Polar Meltdown post, asked if I knew of any maps showing what might happen to coastlines when sea levels begin to rise. He’d had difficulty finding any. I didn’t know of any either, so I did a Google search for nasa climate change maps and found a site put together by Alex Tingle. Located at flood.firetree.net, Alex has managed to combine Google Maps with NASA data to produce a zoomable global map that can display the extent of coastline submersion when sea levels rise, up to 14 metres above current levels. The image on the left shows how London would be afflicted if the river Thames expanded under the pressure of an additional 14 metres of water (click these images to go to the site and see the maps there).

The shaded blue areas on this image show how a significant chunk of eastern England — and a sizeable area of Holland — would disappear if the North Sea rose by 14 metres:

Floodmap of part of England, 14M of sea-level rise

It’s not a perfect system, as Alex discusses at his blog — but it gives enough of an indication to give us all pause for thought.

Floodmap of part of Somerset, 14M of sea-level riseMy part of the world, the levels of north Somerset, has often been flooded in the past — notably, in 1607 — and this image shows how ravaged the area would be if sea levels rose by 14 metres. The shaded area closely coincides with the low-lying area that has been flooded in the past. Of course, when the land floods because of exceptionally high spring tides or crashing storm surges, the body of water subsides quite rapidly (though it leaves utter devastation in its wake, the effects of which last for many years). What this picture shows is the extent of the permanent loss of land that would occur if sea levels rose by 14 metres. My village of Banwell, about four miles inland from the current coastal town of Weston-super-Mare, will be nestling on the shoreline of the new coast. Weston itself will disappear. Worlebury Hill, just to the north of Weston, will become an island. Glastonbury, some ten miles inland, will also find itself all-but surrounded by water and accessible only by a narrow strip of land (currently the A39). Burnham-on-Sea will become Burnham-under-sea; the ancient settlements of Highbridge and Bridgwater — and many more villages and hamlets — will be no more.

Because of limitations in the way Alex has been able to overlay the NASA data on the Google Maps, they can only go up to an increase of 14 metres. This is probably more than enough for current needs — some say there’s going to be about one metre of sea level rise by 2100 — but if most of the ice on Greenland and the ice on the Antarctic continent were to melt away during the centuries to come, then a rise in excess of 25 metres is not out of the question.

And some estimate that if all the ice presently existing on earth melted, sea levels would rise by a staggering 70 metres.

Let’s hope we never go there.

Read my Climate Change posts in chronological order by using the Climate Change Log.

Cornwall: Part 2


Google Earth Challenge banner

To read Cornwall: Part 1, featuring Land’s End, The Minack Theatre and Mousehole, click here.

CORNWALL: PART 2
The EDEN PROJECT

My dear reader — please note that this post includes some quite hefty animated GIFs which might take a little extra time to download. Your patience is appreciated. Most graphics and photos can be clicked to see larger versions, my photo collections at Flickr, or to access other web sites.

The Eden Project map - from Keith's Eden Project web siteWe chose to devote the whole of Wednesday 26th September, our second full day in Cornwall, to a visit to the Eden Project. Located in a huge disused china clay pit at Bodelva, near St. Austell, the project was opened in 2001, under the watchful guidance of visionary founder Tim Smit, working alongside horticultural experts Peter Thoday and Philip McMillan Browse, and Cornish architect and co-founder Jonathan Ball. The more Tim found out about plants, the more he wanted to tell the story of their importance to man, and so for that reason the Eden Project concentrates exclusively upon our relationship with, and dependence upon, plants. Much of our food, clothes, shelter and medicines come from the plant world; without plants, there would be no oxygen for us to breathe — in fact, there would be no life, as we know it, on planet earth.

 
 

The Eden Project on Google Earth - click for a larger image(Click this Google Earth image to view a larger image — and click here for the GE placemarker to load the location into your own installation of Google Earth so you can explore it in more detail.)

It was a showery and rather chilly day, so I was decked out in a long-sleeved T-shirt, a warm woollen jumper and a quilted shirt-coat on top of all that. As we pulled into the car-park — one of many large areas around the periphery of the central complex, all of which are served by a dedicated road infrastructure, the construction of which is almost as impressive as the project itself — the sky was threatening yet another downpour, so I also pulled on a plastic yellow day-glo safety jacket I carry in the boot for emergencies, and donned my hat in preparation for what I thought would be a longish, wet walk down into the main arena. It was only then we realised they operate a free park-and-ride scheme, with bendy buses running every few minutes to take people directly to the visitors’ centre (at the bottom of the above map)!

The Eden Project animation - click for my collection of photos at FlickrEntrance tickets are £14 (with concessions), but that allows you to come back again as many times as you want for the next twelve months. There’s a restaurant for a cuppa before you begin your exploration, as well as a shop (best browsed on the way out), and then you’re through to the observation deck from where you can look out over the whole arena to the huge Tropics Biome (at the top of the map), the smaller Temperate Biome (halfway down the back of the map) and the Core, the exhibition centre (lower right on the map). The exterior areas are all planted with flowers, plants, shrubs, vegetables and fruits — no space is wasted. The yellow zig-zag line on the map is the main path that steers visitors to the different areas with ease; branches lead off into specific outdoor plantations. There’s a staging area (in the centre of the map) where various events, including music concerts, take place throughout the year. (They were preparing it for an ice-skating event when we were there.)


(Mind your ears – the wind was quite strong!)

Everything about the Eden Project is huge, in both its aims and its physical size: the Tropics Biome is the biggest greenhouse in the world, covering 15,590 square metres (1.55 hectares, 3.83 acres). It’s 55 metres (180.45 feet) high, 100 metres (328.08 feet) wide and 200 metres (656.17 feet) long and is high enough to hold the Tower of London or eleven double-decker buses piled on top of one another. The Temperate Biome has an area of 6,540 square metres (0.65 hectares, 1.60 acres), is 35 metres (114.83 feet) high, 65 metres (213.25 feet) wide and 135 metres (442.91 feet) long. More than one million plants, representing 5,000 species from many of the climatic zones of the world, are planted throughout the project.

Before its full opening to the public in March 2001, two construction companies, Sir Robert and Alfred McAlpine, worked for eighteen months without payment or contract (a first for both companies) and then, for good measure, agreed to loan Eden a significant sum only to be repaid if the project was successful! They’re to be congratulated on their foresight and altruism: nearly seven million visitors have come through the doors since then, so hopefully it’s paying them back by now.

The Eden Project animation - click for my collection of photos at FlickrInside the Core, along with the many static and interactive displays, a hidden wonder: estimated to be as old as three hundred million years and weighing as much as ten elephants, a 70-tonne single piece of prime, silver-grey Cornish granite, sculpted by internationally-acclaimed artist Peter Randall-Page into the shape of a seed. Symbolically representing the project’s aspirations to grow into a mighty living repository of some of our planet’s most precious flora, in June 2007 Seed was carefully lowered into the heart of the Core by crane and the roof was then completed above it. Seed won’t be moving again in a hurry! There’s a message to future generations from H.M. Queen Elizabeth II buried under Seed, to rest there forever:

I am confident that the Eden Project will continue to encourage a better understanding of the planet on which we live, to offer a vision of hope for the future, and to inspire us all to work to make this world a better place for everyone.

On the path to the biomes, another work of art: the three-tonne WEEE Man, constructed entirely out of electrical waste. WEEE stands for Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment and the giant sculpture — created by renowned theatrical designer and contemporary artist Paul Bonomini — represents the total amount of electronic waste an average person in the UK will consume in a lifetime!

The rain had held off for the most part, and by the time we reached the covered concourse linking the two biomes it also seemed to have warmed up a little, but it was as nothing compared to the Tropics Biome!

The Eden Project animation - click for my collection of photos at FlickrAs the big glass doors automatically swung open, we were assaulted by an outrushing wall of stifling heat and amazing humidity. Our glasses steamed up. My jeans clung to my legs immediately, as though I’d been standing under a bathroom shower. I suddenly wished I’d left my yellow jacket back at the car — maybe my jumper and quilted shirt as well. And that long-sleeved T-shirt turned out to be not such a clever idea, either. Every pore was oozing sweat. But I didn’t want to disrobe because I wanted my hands free for taking photos, so I elected — rather foolishly, as it turned out — to keep everything on. We followed the path, along with the many other visitors (sensibly dressed, I noted enviously), rising ever higher into the massive biome, passing dense jungle on either side, crossing streams, ducking under huge overhanging leaves and long, sinewy vines. We passed jungle dwellings — huts constructed from roughly hewn wood and old corrugated metal, just as they are in the jungles of the real world where man has settled — and all the time I was growing hotter and stickier under my many layers of clothing.

The Eden Project animation - click for my collection of photos at FlickrAt the highest point, a magnificent waterfall — a chance for me to get some cool spray on my ever-reddening face. The path then headed back down. It was quite steep in some places and the thick jungle — as well as the heat and humidity — was soon closing in around us once again. Strategically placed sprinklers sprayed a fine mist into the heavy air, adding to my discomfort. That deep, resonating jungle drum I could hear (clever touch, I thought) turned out to be the beating of my own heart, pounding in my ears. I was on the point of preparing for what I thought must inevitably be an imminent stroke when the exit suddenly loomed out of the greenery and — whoosh! — in an instant, we went from oppressive equatorial conditions back to good old late-September England.

My relief was unconfined. We found an outside bench and I hurriedly stripped down to my T-shirt, letting the cool air dry me out. Ten minutes and a cigarette-break later it started to rain, so we ducked inside a nearby café for some refreshments.

(Don’t get me wrong: I’ve written this part up in a — hopefully — lightly comical way, but despite my self-imposed discomfort it was a fantastic experience and one I would highly recommend. Just don’t wear too much heavy clothing when you go there yourself!)

The Eden Project animation - click for my collection of photos at FlickrThe Temperate Biome is a much gentler, cooler place. In fact, it seemed not much warmer inside than it was outside. This is where plants from places like north America, north Africa and the Mediterranean live — such as palm trees, cacti, ferns, succulents, and many more I’ve no hope of identifying for you! Everything’s more spread out and on level ground.

I found myself fascinated by the huge skylights that carefully maintain the optimum temperature by automatically opening and closing. Pneumatically controlled, you hear a –pssshh– of compressed air high above your head and, looking up, you watch the segments open one by one, like the petals of some gigantic metal flower.

For the technically curious, I can tell you that the biomes themselves are constructed from hexagons of various sizes, the largest being about nine metres across. The hexagon frames are made of galvanised tubular steel and glazed with a triple layer of ETFE foil. These layers are kept apart by having air blown in between them, forming an insulating pillow. ETFE stands for Ethylene TetraFluoroEthylene co-polymer foil. ETFE is a transparent, recyclable foil and they say it should last for at least thirty years. It’s anti-static, self-cleaning, very strong, transparent to ultra-violet light and isn’t degraded by sunlight. The whole structure is guaranteed maintenance-free for at least twenty-five years.

And so, after a browse around the plant shop (we bought some wildflower seeds to try in our own little garden) and a stroll through the souvenir shop, our brilliant day at the Eden Project came to an end. The bendy bus took us back to Melon car park and we motored back to our chalet at Carnon Downs.

I’m left with happy memories of a Grand Day Out, together with a lasting sense of awe inspired by this project’s size and depth of commitment to its aims — along with a growing concern about what we’re in danger of losing out in the real world.

Fires burning in Australia, and Indonesia and Malaysia - images from fas.orgBecause it’s a sobering thought, isn’t it, that we must stop our destruction of the world’s rainforests and jungles in our frantic rush to create more grazing farmland for beef and suchlike, or we’re probably done for. We’re certainly contributing to the increasing numbers of fires that are already occurring in the wild, accelerating environmental collapse, by adding our man-made blazes to the overall total. By continuing to nibble at the edges, destroying in the process the precious life-giving lungs of the planet for farmland or wood or whatever, we increase the chances of droughts occurring in those areas around the fringes of the jungle, a footprint that soon spreads like a cancer into the deeper rainforest. That’ll shorten the odds on even more wildfires breaking out, growing unchecked, joining together, maybe unleashing unprecedented firestorms amongst the tinder-dry foliage that will eventually wipe out every last stand of trees, choking the atmosphere with carbon dioxide and accelerating the pace of climate change many of us know in our hearts is coming …

Uh. I’m just saying, is all. And I am a writer, you know — one who often confuses the true and the real, even at the best of times — but this is my blog, which I set up for me to write about what I think. Well this is what I think. Is gonna happen.

I don’t know what we do about it. That we’re an integral component in the complex dance of forces driving climate change cannot be denied; but I also understand that people gotta live. It stands to reason, though, that adding fuel to the fire’s the last thing we want to be doing right now. Don’t you think it’ll be one of the greatest tragedies ever to befall us if, in the coming decades — maybe even during the lifetimes of our children or grandchildren — Cornwall’s Eden Project is the only place left on earth where a rainforest still exists?

But hey — there’s still much we can be positive about. Eden’s guiding lights continue to look to the future with a further uplifting project in mind. The next planned building is called the Edge.

The Edge - The Eden Project's latest project

The site states that its scale and ambition will make the Edge an international icon of sustainability, showing mankind is capable of amazing things. The building will be a model of cutting-edge architecture and technology, harvesting water and energy from the sun, wind and rain, to show how we all might live in the future. It will be a testament to one-planet living, built to the lowest possible carbon footprint and designed to last.

Eden Project CEO Tim Smit says of the Edge: I believe that if we get it right, the Edge could be one of the most important buildings ever built. Not because of its structural form, but because of its ambition to create a setting for asking big questions of interest to all of us: What makes humans content? What lessons from the past can inform the future? And what might great look like? The answers to most of them lie not in the realm of technology, but in the building of healthy, safe and inspired communities drawn together by a narrative for the future they can believe in. In truth it is the theatre for the development of this story that we are wanting to build.

Let’s hope it’ll be able to show us how to live without burning forests.

The Eden Project - click for my collection of photos at Flickr

Read my Climate Change posts in chronological order by using the Climate Change Log.